Issyk-Kul. Cholpon-Ata

The border guard at Bishkek airport asks not about the purpose of the trip but whether I have been to Kyrgyzstan before. Hearing “no,” he returns the passport and says, “Try swimming in Issyk-Kul.”

Issyk-Kul is the main lake of the country and one of the deepest in the world. In translation from Kyrgyz language, its name simply means “warm lake.” It was named so because it doesn’t freeze in winter.

The lake is a popular resort among the locals. Small towns and sanatoriums are scattered around it. One of the vacation spots is the city of Cholpon-Ata with a population of 12,500 people. The resort was popular even during the Soviet Union.

Issyk-Kul is absolutely beautiful. Sandy beaches, salty water, peaceful atmosphere.

A panorama of Lake Issyk Kul in Kyrgyzstan

The lake is surrounded by mountains. Snow-capped peaks are visible on the horizon.

Snow capped mountains on the Lake Issyk Kul horizon

Cruise ships are sailing.

A cruise boat on Lake Issyk Kul

The main city beach is simple and peaceful.

A quiet town beach in Cholpon Ata

But there is nothing to eat.

A cafe near the Cholpon Ata beach

Unfortunately, Cholpon-Ata starts and ends at the beach. The rest of the city is in a sad state.

A street in the resort town of Cholpon Ata

In fact, it’s not really a city at all, but a village. In the center, on an empty square, stands a monument to some Soviet commissar.

A Soviet commissar monument on a Cholpon Ata square

There are no multi-story buildings in the city. People live in private houses.

Low rise buildings in Cholpon Ata

Houses:

Houses near Lake Issyk Kul Another residential house in Cholpon Ata

Guesthouse:

A guesthouse in Cholpon Ata

Announcement:

A street notice in Cholpon Ata

Café:

A small cafe in Cholpon Ata

There are no proper stores in the city. People buy groceries at the market.

A shop on a Cholpon Ata street

Somewhere you can come across remnants of an ancient civilization.

Remains of ancient structures near Issyk Kul Another view of ancient structures in Cholpon Ata

Ancient toilet:

An old toilet building in the resort area

Children’s playground under the scorching sun:

A playground in the Cholpon Ata sun

The only good road in Cholpon-Ata goes from Bishkek and bypasses the lake.

The road from Bishkek around Issyk Kul

There are almost no other roads.

An unpaved road in Cholpon Ata

And this is the main problem that kills the whole purpose of the resort’s existence. Throughout the city and, it seems, around all of Issyk-Kul, the roads are nothing more than compacted dirt.

A dusty road to the Issyk Kul beach

When a car drives on such a road, all the dust rises into the air. It’s simply impossible to breathe!

A car on a dusty Cholpon Ata road

You can only walk to the beach wearing a mask or covering your face with a shirt. For people with allergies, the path to Issyk-Kul is closed on pain of death.

A dusty path to the shore of Issyk Kul

On the outskirts of Cholpon-Ata, there is a sightseeing attraction — petroglyphs similar to the ones I saw in Tanbaly.

A field of boulders with ancient carvings near Issyk Kul

Technically, it is simply a field of boulders with drawings.

Rock carvings on boulders near Cholpon Ata

Not as interesting as in Kazakhstan.

Another petroglyph near Lake Issyk Kul

But here they have idols.

Stone idols near Lake Issyk Kul

And a charming view of the ruined Soviet resort.

A view of the Soviet era resort Cholpon Ata

Not far from Cholpon-Ata, I found an airport with direct flights to Moscow. And used it.