Death Valley

The Sierra Nevada mountain range is the last frontier of the state of California. Beyond the mountains lies another state, Nevada, with its crazy Las Vegas.

The Sierra Nevada system includes Yosemite Park and about a dozen other national parks of breathtaking beauty. South of Yosemite is Sequoia Park, where giant sequoias grow.

Giant sequoias in Sequoia National Park
The trunk of a giant sequoia
Sequoias in a snowy forest
A forest of giant sequoias

We are unable to reach Sequoia Park due to snowdrifts.

One road after another turns out to be closed. At some point, a completely clear, almost summer-like road is suddenly blocked by police barriers, with piles of snow just beyond them.

In our attempts to find a detour, we venture into some impenetrable American wilderness. The road starts winding and narrowing, and instead of an open landscape, a forest emerges. Within the forest, there are some ranches fenced off and covered in snow. It looks like a remote village somewhere near Vladimir, except the asphalt is in good condition, and the wooden fences have a rich brown color.

These places are very creepy. There is no mobile network. The December sun is setting. By some miracle, we get out of this abyss and have to drive back along the same tiresome serpentine road.

We stop for the night at the “Corral Creek” hotel somewhere on the backside of Sequoia Park.

A motel near Sequoia National Park

Sunset.

Sunset in the Sierra Nevada

Dawn.

Sunrise in the Sierra Nevada

The next day, we drive on without adventures — otherwise we’d never get there. The snowy forests gradually transition into a snowy desert.

A snow-dusted desert by the road

Everyone knows from geography lessons at school that it can be cold in the desert. No one imagines what it’s actually like to shiver from the cold in the desert under the blazing summer sun. Thorns and cacti thrive in winter, but you do not.

Thorny shrubs and cacti in the winter desert

In the distance, remnants of mountain ranges are still visible.

Mountain ranges on the desert horizon

American wasteland.

The barren California desert

The roads start turning into frames from a movie.

A desert road in California

Somewhere to the side, a lake is visible. It’s impossible to tell if it’s a mirage or not. Judging by the maps, no, it’s not a mirage. But it could have been! That’s exactly how they appear.

A lake in the desert that looks like a mirage

The road turns into a snake.

A winding road in the desert

Electric poles become funeral crosses.

Power poles along a desert highway

The endless highway cracks the horizon.

An endless highway to the horizon

At some point, there is nothing left around except for a flat, clay-sandy desert, surrounded by mountains on all sides. This is Death Valley.

Death Valley surrounded by mountains

Death Valley is a large intermountain basin located in the Mojave Desert region. It contains the lowest point in North America, 86 meters below sea level. The valley is surrounded by mountain ranges.

The basin of Death Valley

Somewhere around here, they filmed the fourth episode of Star Wars.

The desert landscape of Death Valley

Death Valley is the hottest place on Earth. About a hundred years ago, a temperature of +56.7 °C was recorded here. They say there are even hotter temperatures in some Libyan or Iranian desert, but who would believe that?

In December, the temperature here is around 5-10 degrees Celsius.

Death Valley in winter

The valley is elongated from south to north, and the road from California to Nevada cuts it in half.

The road through Death Valley

Along the entire route, cars park, people get out, and photograph the desert. I would be curious to see how many tourists come here for a walk in July.

Tourist cars parked by the road in Death Valley

To be honest, I don’t quite understand where exactly Death Valley is in these photographs and where it ends. Everything there looks more or less the same within a radius of tens of kilometers.

The Death Valley desert

Pure America.

A desert landscape in Nevada

Moving stones

Somewhere deep in the Valley, reachable only by a four-wheel-drive jeep, live the moving stones.

The stones lying in the desert and moving on their own have been known for a very long time.

Imagine this: people arrive in the desert, hundreds of kilometers away from any living soul, with no town or village in sight — nothing. And there lie stones in the desert, with long tracks trailing behind them through the sand. The stones weigh up to a hundred kilograms, and the tracks stretch up to a hundred meters.

A sailing stone with its trail on a dry lakebed
A sailing stone on Racetrack Playa
The track of a moving rock in Death Valley
Sailing stones on cracked clay

Until the 20th century, the self-moving stones were explained by supernatural forces. Then Tesla and Edison’s electro-battle began, and the phenomenon started to be explained by electromagnetism.

In the end, professors took on the task of studying the stones. For instance, there was a professor from the California Institute of Technology who primarily researched reactive motion. Apparently, the USA wanted to send the first astronauts to the Moon in stones. Or perhaps they wanted to save on construction by having bricks walk from the construction site and assemble themselves into a house.

Well, the professors arrived in the desert, encircled 30 stones, gave them names, and set them free. Then they waited.

During the winter, the stones began to move. One stone, Maria, crawled 65 meters during the first winter. The smallest stone, Nancy, crawled 262 meters. During 7 years of continuous observation, out of the 30 stones, only the 2 dumbest and most stubborn didn’t move. The legend says that one of them later grew fabulously rich and became the president of the US.

The research, believe it or not, went on for a hundred years and continues to this day. In other words, people seriously studied, obtained scientific degrees, and set out to investigate the stones in the desert. Some wrote dissertations, others defended their theses. One scientific study proved that the stones do not move in parallel. Well, in the Euclidean sense.

It all ended with the invention of GPS. Sensors were placed on 162 stones, and their movements were recorded. Weather conditions, including wind, were modeled, and the conclusion was that the stones were indeed moved by the wind, while a thin crust of ice greatly reduced friction. As a result, the stones moved at speeds of up to 5 meters per minute.

The movement was captured on video. In terrible quality, though.

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Death Valley paints alien landscapes. This could have been a filming location for a lunar landing.

The otherworldly landscape of Death Valley

A lonely shop by the gas station, straight out of a thriller.

A lonely gas station store in the desert

Straight highways stretching far away.

A straight highway stretching into the distance

Traveling through these places is only possible by car.

A car on a desert road

The road is an American way of life.

An American desert highway

Before I went to the USA, I had only seen landscapes like these in computer games and my imagination. It seemed that in real life, there was nothing quite like what we see in movies about the Wild West.

A Wild West landscape

It turned out that the fantastical picture is more than real if you are in America.

Desert mountains at sunset

The next stop is Las Vegas.