Novi Sad

The Serbian city of Novi Sad boldly declares itself the cultural capital of Europe.

A European Capital of Culture sign in Novi Sad

Well, let’s check this out.

Indeed, Novi Sad has everything when it comes to culture. The city itself is intricately designed, as if an artist painted a picture. All painting techniques can be found on the streets of Novi Sad.

Symmetry:

Symmetrical architecture in central Novi Sad

Asymmetry:

Asymmetrical buildings on a Novi Sad street

Perspective:

A street perspective in Novi Sad

Dynamics:

A lively urban view of Novi Sad

Plot:

A scene on a Novi Sad street

Riddle:

An unusual detail on a Novi Sad street

Structure:

The structure of Novi Sad’s urban buildings

Openness to the world:

An urban detail about openness in Novi Sad

Novi Sad is not just a city in Serbia. It is the capital of the autonomous province of Vojvodina. In the past, its name was even more amusing: Banat, Bačka, and Baranja.

This part of Serbia was part of Austria-Hungary for a long time. Even today, Hungarians make up 13% of the population in Vojvodina. In many ways, Vojvodina is like Kosovo: it is the second special autonomous region of Serbia with its own official languages, local government, and budget.

The ethnic question in Vojvodina was not as acute, which is why Vojvodina remained part of Serbia. And thank god for that because I burst out laughing every time I imagine a passport entitled Republic of Vojvodina.

However, Novi Sad did get a hit from NATO: during the bombings, the city’s bridge was destroyed.

A Novi Sad bridge destroyed during bombing

I don’t know why Novi Sad decided to call itself the cultural capital of Europe.

A square in Novi Sad, a European cultural capital

The city is incredibly poor, in a terrible state.

Even the historical center is falling apart.

Just like in Belgrade, all the walls are covered with slogans of nationalists.

Nationalist slogans on a Novi Sad wall

Meanwhile, the city clearly has a history, as well as impressive architecture.

They have only renovated one historical street in the center of Novi Sad, and it looks quite good.

A restored historic street in Novi Sad

It resembles a provincial Russian city. Something like Nizhny Novgorod.

A provincial town scene in Novi Sad

In a rare alley you can discover true beauty.

An attractive lane in central Novi Sad

But it’s simply scary to look into most of the archways.

An archway into a courtyard in Novi Sad

Not everyone can appreciate the beauty in the charming signs and unusual drawings.

But everyone can see the peeling plaster from the walls, broken sidewalks, smelly garbage bins, and trampled grass.

Peeling plaster and a broken Novi Sad sidewalk

That was the city center, but what about outside the center?

A Novi Sad street away from the center

Outside the center, it’s absolutely grim.

A neglected district beyond central Novi Sad

No, you think about it. Republic of Vojvodina. Maybe they have a show like “Vojvodina’s Got Talent”?

A Vojvodina street sign in Novi Sad

That was Novi Sad, the cultural capital of Europe.