Zagreb

A county (Croatian: županija) is the main administrative and territorial unit of Croatia, headed by a župan. Croatia currently has 21 counties, including the capital, Zagreb, which has the status of a separate county.
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Zagreb is the capital city of Croatia. Half a day in Zagreb is way too long.

A street in central Zagreb

A completely meaningless city.

A dull street in Zagreb

From the first moments, Zagreb seems to ask: tourist, why did you come to me?

Overcast Zagreb A city view of Zagreb

In the city, there are posters supporting refugees from the Middle East.

A poster supporting refugees in Zagreb

Do the Croatian authorities seriously believe an Iraqi refugee would go to fucking Zagreb?

A poster about Middle Eastern refugees on a Zagreb street

Architecture.

Architecture of central Zagreb An old facade in Zagreb A building in central Zagreb

In Ljubljana, graffiti is seen as a new genre of art, while in Zagreb, it is perceived as a shitstorm.

Graffiti is seen as a new genre of art

And a shitstorm it basically is. Zagreb collected all the troubles of Eastern Europe: buildings with crumbling plaster, shabby asphalt, huge wooden platforms of street cafes blocking half of the street, and overall clutter.

Huge wooden platforms of street cafes blocking half of the street

By the way, the café platforms are set up not on the sidewalk but on the road. How is that even allowed?

A cafe terrace on the roadway in Zagreb

The tram is one of the few pleasant things in Zagreb.

The old center.

Zagreb’s old center

The most touristy street. The roof with two coats of arms belongs to the Church of St. Mark. It is said to have been built way back in 1242. Okay.

An entrance to a historic site in Zagreb

If everything in Zagreb was built in 1242, one could forgive such devastation.

A rundown house in old Zagreb Dereliction in Zagreb’s old center

But everything here was actually built much later.

Shabby old town buildings in Zagreb

The main restaurant street of the city. All the cafés open at noon at the earliest, usually even later. Before that time, the street is almost completely empty.

The main restaurant street of the city

There are a few cozy-looking places, to be fair.

A cozy-looking place in Zagreb

Perhaps in sunny weather, it’s even nice here.

A street with cafes in Zagreb A Zagreb pedestrian street on a cloudy day A square in central Zagreb

But fortunately, there was no sunny weather.

Zagreb under a grey sky

What I like most about places like Zagreb is the pretty-facade strategy. From the street side, everything is more or less clean, but once you turn from the main street into an alley... and there... the-e-e-ere!

An unsightly lane behind a main street in Zagreb

Letter “N”. Navigation.

A wayfinding sign in Zagreb

Letter “R”. Restoration.

Facade restoration in Zagreb

Zagrebachka Bank.

Zagrebačka Bank in Zagreb

A few good streets, after all.

A nice street in Zagreb A well-kept street in Zagreb A pretty street in central Zagreb

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Yes, Zagreb is something else. If things are so bad in the city center, then what’s happening in the residential areas? Oh dear...

A residential district of Zagreb

Why did you ask, huh?

Panel blocks on the outskirts of Zagreb

The residential areas of Zagreb easily outshine the worst places in Russia (not really).

High-rises in a Zagreb housing estate

Here is one of the courtyards. Two giant gray buildings. There is absolutely no room for life between them. The entire area is occupied by parking. Moreover, it is also filled with garages, through which an “underground passage” is carved between the two parts of the courtyard.

I have never seen such a brutal attitude toward public space before.

A neglected public space in Zagreb

Children’s playground.

A playground among local houses in Zagreb

Monstrous buildings.

⁂ — Monstrous buildings in Zagreb

Entrance.

An apartment block entrance in Zagreb

Hello, Bratislava!

A Zagreb housing estate resembling Bratislava A courtyard of panel blocks in Zagreb Grey high-rises in Zagreb

Pain and emptiness in Zagreb.

Pain and emptiness in Zagreb