Saransk

The misunderstanding called “Saransk” can be expressed in one photo. The Ferris wheel stands here at the bottom of the ravine.

The Ferris wheel stands here at the bottom of the ravine The Ferris wheel stands here at the bottom of the ravine

Intrigued?

Let’s go up the ravine, overcoming asphalt rivers.

A paved path up a ravine in Saransk

At the top, we will discover the church named after St. Fyodor Ushakov. It’s a maximally tasteless building, hastily put together in 2002. The title of saint was bestowed upon Ushakov just a year before the construction of the temple.

The Cathedral of St. Theodore Ushakov in Saransk

Opposite the church stands the only monument to Patriarch Nikon in Russia. They say he played some incredibly significant role in the enslavement christianization of the Mordovian people. The story is as pointless as can be. Some sources say that the monument was erected in honor of the 401st anniversary of Nikon’s birth, while others say it was in honor of the 325th anniversary of his death.

Opposite the church stands the only monument to Patriarch Nikon in Russia

The rest of Saransk was built from the remnants of materials used in the construction of the church.

The rest of Saransk was built from the remnants of materials used in the construction

They cast a monument to war from the remains of Nikon’s bust.

They cast a monument to war from the remains of Nikon’s bust

So here is the capital of Mordovia.

A view of Saransk, the capital of Mordovia

I don’t know how to describe Saransk without swearing. Everything in the city is just a complete fucking mess.

National Museum. It feels like they assembled it from a former fazenda of a Mordovian general.

An exhibition at a local museum in Saransk

Inside the museum, it feels like you’ve come to a flea market.

Stalls at a local market in SaranskStalls at a local market in Saransk

The mannequins depicting ancient Mordovian life were snatched from a GAP store.

A shop on a city street in Saransk

In the photographs, grandfathers are exorcising Satan from a child.

Grandfathers are exorcising Satan from a child

The “Modern Saransk” exhibit features the traditional costume of a homeless person.

The “Modern Saransk” exhibit features the traditional costume of a homeless person

The exhibit on the peoples of Mordovia proudly tells the story of Jews who lived here. I checked. In 1870, there were only eight Jews living in Saransk, and in the best years of the USSR (1970s), there were only 425 Jews living here. But apparently, that was enough to put up an entire exhibit in the national museum.

A display on the Jews of Mordovia in the national museum

Entrance to the city park.

Entrance to the city park

“Welcome to the future.”

A futuristic square in Saransk

Amusement rides.

Fairground rides in a Saransk park

Small sculptural forms.

Small sculptures in Saransk

Architecture of Saransk.

Typical architecture of Saransk

The authorities of Saransk have completely lost their fucking minds and decided to build the entire city with facade-only buildings in the style of neoclassicism.

A building with a Neo-Empire ventilated facade in Saransk

Catatonic clusterfuck.

Red and yellow pseudo-classical buildings in Saransk

This city literally tore my ass apart with all the fuckery around. Who is the idiot who built this and why?

A pompous new building in central Saransk

Saransk looks like someone wallpapered the entire apartment, including the floor and ceiling. There are only two colors everywhere: red and yellow.

Facades in red and yellow in Saransk

National Theater of Mordovia.

The National Theater of Mordovia in Saransk

Building of Moscow State University.

The Ogarev Mordovia State University building in Saransk

I’m not joking. This building is called Ogarev’s Moscow State University — the main university of Saransk.

The main building of Ogarev University in Saransk

So they just took and built a copy of a Stalinist skyscraper out of the same material they use to finish summer cottages!

Tall buildings among the city blocks in Saransk

This beauty stands in the center of the city.

A Neo-Empire building in central Saransk

They built a shopping center nearby out of the same material.

They built a shopping center nearby out of the same material

And they had enough for a whole stadium too.

The stadium in Saransk

And for their version of Ohotny Ryad, too.

A shopping center in Okhotny Ryad style in Saransk

And for the residential buildings around as well.

Neo-Empire style apartment buildings in Saransk

And for the liquor store, yep.

A vodka shop in a pseudo-classical building in Saransk

I have only been to one city worse than Saransk — Yoshkar-Ola. Honestly, Saransk is not that far behind. You really have to look for such idiocy!

A street of pompous buildings in Saransk

Of course, all of this was slapped together any old fucking way. People’s hooves wrecked the pavement within a year.

Cracked paving on a new square in Saransk

In theory, everyone who built this should have been executed by a court. But the court building is also made of the same material. A vicious circle.

The courthouse in Saransk

Main Post Office.

The main post office in Saransk

It is so big because in Mordovia, you can’t buy anything except for bear paws in sour cream, and Saransk residents order everything from Moscow.

The huge post office building in Saransk

The main street of the city, an analogue of Tverskaya Street.

The main street of Saransk Saransk’s central street with classical facades

Innovation center.

The innovation center in Saransk

The brilliance of Saransk outshone the capabilities of my camera. It was blocked by the divine light emanating from the Ushakov temple and stopped working. I had to continue taking pictures with my phone.

Too bad because the golden Lenin would have looked much better on a Panasonic than an iPhone.

A Lenin monument on a street in Saransk

No, just take a look. GOLDEN LENIN.

A golden Lenin in Saransk

The emblem and inscription on the House of Soviets are also in gold. Stop. What House of Soviets? This is the building of the State Assembly of the Mordovian Republic. For some unbelievable reason, they left the inscription “House of Soviets” on it. And Russians tell me that nostalgia for Stalin is not real.

The emblem and inscription on the House of Soviets are also in gold

Saransk, 380 degrees.

A botched facade renovation in Saransk

City square. The record is broken again. It seems that the largest empty square I had seen before was in Smolensk.

A broad city square in Saransk A broad city square in Saransk

The central alley in front of the temple.

The central alley in front of the cathedral in Saransk

“Internet house.”

The Internet House building in SaranskThe Internet House sign in Saransk

Road safety.

A road safety poster in Saransk

A city-forming enterprise. The main source of income for residents of Saransk. It operates 24 hours a day without lunch breaks.

The main source of income for residents of Saransk

Stock exchange. Short orders are accepted at window #5.

Short orders are accepted at window #5

“House of Finance.”

The House of Finance in Saransk

Hipster cafes.

A hipster cafe in Saransk

Streets in the residential neighborhoods of Saransk.

Streets in the residential neighborhoods of Saransk Streets in the residential neighborhoods of Saransk

Library on someone’s balcony.

Bookshelves on a balcony in Saransk

General practitioner doctor in someone’s kitchen.

General practitioner doctor in someone’s kitchen

The quality of housing construction is such that even the windows are at different levels.

Misaligned windows in a Saransk apartment block

River.

The river in Saransk

This is not a field outside the city. This is the very center. The national museum is visible on the right. There is a walking embankment along the river.

A waterfront promenade in Saransk

Just a giant empty lot in the city center overgrown with weeds.

Just a giant empty lot in the city center overgrown with weeds

Dear Reader, you won’t believe it, but I still found a spoonful of honey in a barrel of shit. There is a wonderful Erzya Museum in Saransk.

Stepan Dmitrievich Erzya was a Mordovian sculptor who worked in the Art Nouveau style. His real surname was Nefedov, and Erzya was a pseudonym he took from the name of the Erzya people, a small ethnic group in Mordovia. I bet none of you have ever heard of him. It’s a pity because the sculptor was truly interesting. He participated in many international exhibitions and had global recognition, though modest.

The museum presents his works. The most famous one is “Moses”.

The most famous one is “Moses” The most famous one is “Moses”

There are also several other sculptures on religious themes.

A religious sculpture in Saransk A religious monument near the cathedral in Saransk

Is it worth traveling to Saransk for this museum? I don’t think so. A spoonful of honey won’t make a barrel of shit any sweeter. And there is nothing else interesting here.